Pickled herring on my breakfast plate? I’m usually a “When in Rome….” traveler, but I managed to skip this Swedish delicacy when I was in Stockholm. However, this was Kansas. Lindsborg is possibly more Swedish than Sweden. And so, I gingerly cut a small bite off and ate it. Pickled herring was probably the only thing I didn’t love about this beautiful, little Swedish-settled town.
The drive to Lindsborg – three hours north, four-lane almost all the way – was a delight. The landscape, flat as a piece of paper, was quilted with color. Deep green fields of soybeans, acres of drying, caramel-colored cornstalks, shiny lime-shaded milo and dark chocolate fields of newly-turned soil were interspersed with acres of brilliant yellow sunflowers. A drive I’d anticipated as being boring was, instead, a trip through an exciting palette of agricolor.
Turning off the interstate, we entered town on the east side. Within a few blocks, we were in a different world.
Lindsborg was established in 1869 when a group of settlers from the Swedish province of Varmland arrived. The location was good for farming and the Smoky Hill River provided water. They planned a farming community with emphasis on learning, religion and culture.
Today, Main Street features colorful reminders of Sweden -- replicas of the famed, wooden, Dala horses, a symbol of the country, are on every street corner. Our accommodation, the Dröm Sött (Sweet Dreams) Inn sported a cream stucco façade with cerulean blue trim and a bright red front door.
Inside, the décor echoed the blue and white theme. Pine furniture was painted with Scandinavian rosemaling designs. Brilliant red geraniums lined the blue front window sill. Our room was homey and comfortable – with a cute shower curtain with whimsical farm animals. Did you know Swedish pigs go “nöff-nöff”? 
I’m not a shopper, but Jack wanted to catch a nap, so I checked out the Main Street stores. And, yes, I spent money.
Lindsborg’s historic downtown features several blocks of interesting shops and boutiques. I saw shelf after shelf of Swedish tomte – mythological figures which were said to protect farm families and property. Christmas items snuggled up next to ubiquitous sunflower-themed decorative pieces.
The Good Merchant, owned by Molly and Tyler Johnson, is full of fascinating things from furniture and home décor to clothing. It’s worth a visit just to see Tyler’s clever re-creation chandelier made from an old windmill and the bathroom sink incorporated into a piano body.
Trollslända was designed by the Howard family to represent an old-fashioned Scandinavian toy store.
Hemslöjd is Dala central. Watch the small horses being painted in the back factory. The shop portion of the store is filled with everything Swedish. 
To see stunning photography, stop in Small World (Gallery), co-owned by Jim Richardson, a long-time National Geographic photographer and his wife Kathy. In addition to Jim’s photography, Kathy and Briana Zimmerling create unusual jewelry from antique metals and precious stones. Look also for handwoven items, scarves, purses, cards and books.
Our itinerary included a photo op in a sunflower field. It was late afternoon – the photographer’s golden hour. I was looking forward to having the sun to my back and on the sunflower faces. Then I discovered that they follow the sun when they are young. When they mature, their heads get heavy and they stop moving – facing east! I still got some decent pictures.
The field was close to Coronado Heights, a landmark on the flat prairie. A WPA-constructed “castle” sits atop the bluff. Folks go there to hike, picnic, or just enjoy the panoramic view. There’s no evidence that Coronado was here – but Spanish artifacts have been found in the area.
We started the next morning with breakfast in the cozy Dröm Sött dining room. Jack chose a blueberry strata while I ordered the Swedish plate – two kinds of Swedish cheese, rolled ham, Swedish meatballs, pickled beets, a boiled egg, fruit and pickled herring. This was accompanied by Swedish rye bread (sweet), knäckebröt (crispbread) and lingonberries.
Thus fortified, we headed for the Maxwell Wildlife Refuge, home to the largest bison herd in Kansas – about 265 when we were there. The guided tour took us on a tram right into the middle of the herd where we stopped to hear about the animals, their history and habits and about the other animals (including an elk herd) and plants on the prairie. Wildflower tours are a hit in the late spring. 
Back in town we stopped at the Birger Sandzén Memorial Gallery. Sandzén was born in Sweden in 1871 and came to Lindsborg in 1894 to teach at Bethany College. He was the principal art instructor for 47 years during which time he painted prolifically. His works are in the collections of major museums in the U.S. and Sweden.
In addition to Sandzén’s works, the museum collection includes pieces from the famed Swedish sculptor Carl Milles and glass from Orrefors and Kosta Boda. Only a small portion of the museum’s holdings are on display at any one time. Other works range from Lucas Cranach to Dale Chihuly.
Next was a quick lunch at the Blacksmith Coffee Shop and Roastery, housed in the historic Holmberg and Johnson Blacksmith and Wagon Shop. The décor reflects the building’s history. It was too hot for coffee, but Jack bought some to bring home.
An attraction we’d seen before – but didn’t have time for this trip – was the Old Mill Museum (Lindsborg Old Mill & Swedish Heritage Museum). On the grounds is a beautiful building, the Swedish Pavilion, from the 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis.
Our last stop was the Red Barn Studio (Museum), the working studio of the late Lester Raymer, born in Alva, Oklahoma. He was unbelievably versatile. His paintings show influences of Picasso and Dali. He also worked in metal, ceramics, fabrics and stitchery, toy-making, and furniture. I love this place! 
Needless to say, we didn’t have enough time in Lindsborg. We left with great memories and some souvenirs – but no pickled herring.
Elaine Warner is an award winning member of the Society of American Travel Writers, and was awarded the 2019 SATW Best Magazine Travel Article featuring US/Canadian Destination. All photos are credited to her. This article originally appeared in the Visit Lindsborg January 2024 Posten. Click here to subscribe.